As a need of the hour we have introduced a new service called ‘SAREE REJUVENATION’ which is essentially an upcycling service for heirloom sarees. Its a given that lot of our clients have often mentioned that they possess tens of beautiful heirloom sarees which are getting old and strength of the fabric is also declining due to non usage as the aesthetic is pretty old fashioned and worn out.
Due to their pure memory value and originality of weaves the sarees are just kept in cupboards eating dust never destined to see the light of the day anymore.
To address this need we have designed a saree refurbishment process where we examine the heirloom saree for its defects to define the areas that need work or can be changed for a more contemporary appeal retaining the traditional flavour of the saree.
CASE STUDY 1
Our client gave us a beautiful Sambalpuri saree with intricate Ikat work and a traditional rudraksh border. The saree was gifted to her by her mother in law but due to certain off colours in the border of teh saree she never got to wear it but loved the ikat weave all over the saree.The challenge was to give the saree a new formal appeal with a new border development and a brand new stylish blouse to go with it.
The Saree in pursuit as you can see is traditional in its true sense and must retain its original flavour, in this case which is a purely ethnic Sambalpuri double ikat rudraksh border saree.
We decided to introduce Chanderi elements with gold zari weaving of a contemporary lotus bouquet pattern and ashoka leaves to complement the saree as a toran inspired border
The beauty of this process was that the integration of the chanderi lotus jaal into the pallu resulted in the central pallu area of the old pallu being taken out and reused again on a pure raw silk maroon base as leaf shaped appliques for the back lower border and sleeve edges along with full curved zig zag embroidred anchoring pattern for the fullupper back area as embroidred and sleeves with the residual rudraksh border left from the border replacement.
So what do we get as a result of this amalgamation was a completely new look with chanderi Opadda style zari woven pallu and border and contrasted with a golden yellow reverse fall giving that extra dramatic accent to the saree.The saree is finally a brand new piece created at half the cost of a new formal saree , saves the heritage piece and upcycles it into a brand new product.
CASE STUDY 2
The second saree in this series that we received was another ikat saree win a beautiful combination of grey, Maroon and black accents.the material of the saree was pure silk and had a plain grey body.The highlight of the saree was the amazing ikat pallu and a lovely zig zag border defined by the traditional Korvai weaving techniques employed for creating a contrasting colour body designed around the grey colour block.
The client wanted to retain the pallu for sure for obvious reasons of its grandness and uniqueness but wanted to ‘jazz’ it up more in a complimenting way to make it more formal for suiting current fashion trends and aesthetics along with retention of its rooted rendition of ikat
Looking at the saree’s traditional treatment it had strong parallels that one could place with embroideries like french knots and kaamdani/ mukaish work from bareilly to enhance the saree.Henceforth, form guided embroidery techniques were further researched and executed in the empty border areas around the pallu.
The blouse of the saree has a fresh take of a Banaresi brocade introduced with silver zari woven in a jaal format of layout accentuated with plain maroon raw silk sleeves value added with the same kaamdani frenchknot border as done in the pallu for a thoughtful connect and embroidred rice stitch(chawal taanka) done in zig zag fashion to emulate the pattern of the border of saree in essence on the silver brocade base for the full back area of the blouse
CASE STUDY 3
This client gave us a lovely traditional venkatgiri silk saree for rejuvenation due to stains on the pallu but the love for the saree was so great she didn’t have the heart to discard it and thus came to us for this salvage..and we surely didn’t disappoint her !
The saree had a beautiful fuscia pink body colour with contrasting traditional straight line textures but had a black stain on it so the pallu was decided to be removed and to be used tor the back of the new blouse to be designed for the saree.The remaining pallu was mixed with other brocades and silk wastages to create a triangular american patchwork style surface to achieve a unique look earlier designed in the pallu of a dupatta we had.The body of the saree was untouched since it was a lovely silk drape in an amazing colour.
So as everything was falling in place the saree was given a final facelift with this refinements and the result was stunning as seen in the video below.
CASE STUDY 4
Client came with this kanjivaram korvai check pattern Saree for salavaging it and converting into a bit playful look for semi formal use.The saree wa sgifted to the client by her grandmother so it was a bit of older pattern.
We decided to give a handpainted floral appeal to the saree by replacing the pallu and adding a lotus inspired handpainted jaal pattern which is highlighted with rice stitch embroidery
the handpainting done on pallu was carried out by an artist who took 5 days to finally paint the pattern as a full jaal on the pallu and intermittent lotus motifs running across the bottom border of the Saree.the daree was finally accented with a banarasi check wine coloured dyed blouse with a zari back and sleeve edges as extensive intricate pattern
CASE STUDY 5
This saree was given by the client as a completely plain simple tassar silk saree picked up impulsively at a weavers exposition. After the purchase client realised the saree was too simple to be worn for formal occasions and this is when we came in the picture.
Our studio specialises in giving exclusive textile treatments to sarees that you may find otherwise highly mundane and run of the mill. So an extremely simple Venkatgiri// Banaresi/ Mangalgiri saree can become a very exclusive formal saree saving you the base saree cost and a completely new saree at almost 50% cost of a new formal saree.
The multicolour banaresi brocade has been used for developing a grand pallu and a border applique handcut in the temple border pattern inspired from the Korvai borders of south indian Kanjivaram sarees.
- VISHAL KAPUR